Thursday, January 27, 2011
Mzuzu to Mbeya
I Arrived in Mzuzu and had a good sleep at the Mzuzu lodge who donated a night to me , the next day I was on a rest day and went to the Mzoozoozoo backpackers lodge which was hidden in a side street with not too much signage at all . Well it was like a step back into the 60's . Gerard , the owner was very helpful and gave me a roomm on the house and intorduced me to some of his friends who were staying for a while . The one chap reminded me of the rolling stones drummer , and i suspect that back in the day he had enjoyed one or two acid parties too many .. they were all great . i t was a really relaxing stay and although i headed to bed fairly early the party did not stop till pretty late that night .
Next day i haead for Rhumpi turn off which is about 60 km . It was nice flat running and at the 52 km mark I met Danny and Chris who had cycled from cornwall all th eway down through africa and were heading for Capetown . I was pleased to meet some fellow travelers as the last one i had met wasthe crazy russian in Zimbabwe .
That night i nade my way to the CCAP ( presby church )üp on the hill near the Rhumphi turn off . On arrival i wa slucky to meet Treasure , on eof the chior singers , who could speak fair english . She organised that I stay in the ministers house and have supper there as well. The Choir then sang a song for me which was beautifully done . Th eministers wife asked what i liked to eat and i explained that simple Nshima( pap) with Tomato and onion was perfect for me as I new this was what they would probably be preparing for them self .
Much to my horror she promptly killed the chicken that had been wandering around th eyard and we had exactly what i had asked for but with some chicken thrown in . I felt mortified simply because no one else ate any chicken besides the minister and I . I am ahumbled everytime when people who have less give so much .
Next day I set off hoping to make it to the lake . on the way i found a bridge over a raging river made only of reeds , this was used with confidence by the local,s . My confidence deserted me when I was about half way across and it became quite nerve wracking but was well worth the detour .
I eventualy ran out of down hill and had a long slog up a major mountain and was rewarded by a spectacular view of the lake Malawi as i crested the top of the mountian . Wow ......Awesome .
I stayed on the lake shore that night at a camp site that was over flowing with people in overland vechiles .
The next morning I was running along when two cyclist,s snuck up behind me . they were Nelson and Linda from Canada . they had set off from Jhb and were heading to Nairobi . We travel a fair way together and they were really good company . They told me they had been waiting to catch up with me becuase they had been told by others that this crazy man was actully travelling alone on foot .
My entry into Tanzania was not as cheerful as the Tea picker in the photo above . I was warned several times not to get involved with the money changers at the border but i need to change money to get a drink as i manged to get quite dehydrated on the 50 run to the border . Eventually after muchnegatiation , lack of focus and down right stupidity i managed to exchange R50 worth of malawian kwacha,s for R5 worth of Tanzanian schillings . Well at least I managed to by a coke .